Evinrude compression numbers
I searched as well but had no luck.
The reason I pointed out it most likely being a 9.9, was just to make your googling a little easier.
I looked through my old brochures and they don't list that spec. I would guess any service manual would have the numbers. Wish I had one! Usually with the old rope starters, even if the compression is a little low it's not usually a big deal, what's more of an issue is when they vary too much when compared to one another.
Let us know what the answer is when you find out!
-Chris
The reason I pointed out it most likely being a 9.9, was just to make your googling a little easier.
I looked through my old brochures and they don't list that spec. I would guess any service manual would have the numbers. Wish I had one! Usually with the old rope starters, even if the compression is a little low it's not usually a big deal, what's more of an issue is when they vary too much when compared to one another.
Let us know what the answer is when you find out!
-Chris
He borrowed a compression gauge and said it's about 125 psi in both cylinders. Started up fine on a hose, launched my jon boat and once in the water it wouldn't start! Here's the weird thing, it's leaking a black oily substance out of the exhaust holes above the cavitation plate. Sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't (usually after you've put it in the water). When it does start up it runs like a champ. If it decides not to start, you see the oily residue leaking onto the cavitation plate again. We tested the coils and it's getting fire but nothing really makes sense about this motor. It was purchased new by a friend of his locally who recently bought a new motor and then gave this motor to my friend. The previous owner recently had it serviced at a local dealer to fix the recoil starter on it. They said the motor should be fine. I'm starting to have reservations about it. My buddy ran synthetic chain saw two-stroke oil in it for about ten minutes. I told him not to run that anymore since it's not TCW-30 rated oil. He asked the dealer if this could have hurt the motor and they said no and that the oily substance was just carbon that was loosened up by the synthetic oil! That doesn't make any sense to me and so I don't trust that mechanic now. This weekend we're going to reclean the carbs and try to inspect the reed valves for possible damage.
creel,
125 on both should be good I would think.
When you say there is an oily substance on the cavitation plate, where does it look like it's coming from?
Does it seem like it's being discharged from the exhaust?
Have you checked the gear case for leaks? If you pull a gear case filler plug, is the oil milky at all?
If it isn't that, it's probably just either running rich, or it's blowing out carbon and crap.
After you run it, have you checked the plugs to see what they look like? Normally if you have some kind of ignition issue on one plug, it will look different then the other. One might be all fouled, or might look like it's never been fired etc.
Also, it sounds like you guys cleaned the carb, how did you set the jets? If you have a good service manual, it will normally tell you to screw them all the way in and then back them out a certain amount like a half or three quarter turn as a starting point. I usually find if I set them up that way, the motor just usually needs a small adjustment here or there and I'm good to go.
Whenever I have issues, I always try to go back to basics...fuel, air & spark and it should go.
125 on both should be good I would think.
When you say there is an oily substance on the cavitation plate, where does it look like it's coming from?
Does it seem like it's being discharged from the exhaust?
Have you checked the gear case for leaks? If you pull a gear case filler plug, is the oil milky at all?
If it isn't that, it's probably just either running rich, or it's blowing out carbon and crap.
After you run it, have you checked the plugs to see what they look like? Normally if you have some kind of ignition issue on one plug, it will look different then the other. One might be all fouled, or might look like it's never been fired etc.
Also, it sounds like you guys cleaned the carb, how did you set the jets? If you have a good service manual, it will normally tell you to screw them all the way in and then back them out a certain amount like a half or three quarter turn as a starting point. I usually find if I set them up that way, the motor just usually needs a small adjustment here or there and I'm good to go.
Whenever I have issues, I always try to go back to basics...fuel, air & spark and it should go.
The oily substance is definitely coming from the exhaust holes above the cav plate. He recleaned the carbs and I asked him about the jets, he seemed puzzled about backing them out some. He checked the gearcase lube (it's fine) and he dropped the foot and inspected the impellor (also fine). While the foot was off he sprayed carb cleaner inside the exhaust housing and he said a lot of oily residue came out, then he put everything back together. He's fixing to test start it again, this time using a tank of water instead of the flush attachment. Sometimes it sounds like it's not trying to fire but the ignition tests okay. I suggested that he try leaning out the mixture with the adjustment located on the front of the motor. If we don't get it running right this weekend I think it's gonna have to go to a professional.
Chris,
Disaster struck, he was hooking the fuel line back up to the fuel pump. He loosen the screws to inspect it but it came apart. Not only does it have a rubber diaphram but it has springs in it too...complex enough that he'll need a diagram to get it back together. We think the fuel pump may be worn out anyway so he's gonna buy a new one. I also convinced him to buy a repair manual. You have to admire his diligence!
Disaster struck, he was hooking the fuel line back up to the fuel pump. He loosen the screws to inspect it but it came apart. Not only does it have a rubber diaphram but it has springs in it too...complex enough that he'll need a diagram to get it back together. We think the fuel pump may be worn out anyway so he's gonna buy a new one. I also convinced him to buy a repair manual. You have to admire his diligence!
Well those old 2 stroke punts are kinda fun to mess with. They're fairly simple for the most part, and easy to work on.
The oily crap is mosly likely just because it's running like crap. What do the spark plugs look like after it's been running?
A good manual will tell you how to adjust the jets to get them "close enough" and then you can fine tune them once it's running. Typically, you turn them all the way in and then the manual will tell you to back them out a certain amount of turns. I would guess one turn would be in the ballpark as a guess.
Rebuilding the fuel pump might solve the issue, who knows. Maybe the diaphram was damaged. If that isn't it, I would think the carb is the culpret.
Keep us updated - it would be to see some shots of it blowing smoke down the road.
-Chris
The oily crap is mosly likely just because it's running like crap. What do the spark plugs look like after it's been running?
A good manual will tell you how to adjust the jets to get them "close enough" and then you can fine tune them once it's running. Typically, you turn them all the way in and then the manual will tell you to back them out a certain amount of turns. I would guess one turn would be in the ballpark as a guess.
Rebuilding the fuel pump might solve the issue, who knows. Maybe the diaphram was damaged. If that isn't it, I would think the carb is the culpret.
Keep us updated - it would be to see some shots of it blowing smoke down the road.
-Chris