Questions re new floor & stringers

[Muttley]

Hi. Started pulling the floor up in a V156 Glastron I intend restoring.
Apparently the boat spent about 8 months nose down and uncovered so it became a swimming pool. I knew the floor and most likely the stringers would be stuffed and they certainly are. Now, questions........
1/ The stringers have at some point been replaced and glass fibre layed over the top. The wood has rotted out but the fibreglass is still there in shape.
Do I have to replace the lot with new timber or could I reinforce/build on the fibreglass forms and have purely fibreglass stringers, and epoxy the new floor to them?
2/ The foam will have to come out. Do I need to replace it? Is it's purpose just sound deadening or something more?
3/ Do I have to use marine ply (and if so what thickness) or is there a better &/or more permanent alternative? Fibreglass sheeting for example?
I'm not bad at DYI but new to boating so any advice is greatfully appreciated.
Cheers, Mut.

 

[Chris E]

good luck with the restore Mut:

1 - i would probably redo the stringers in wood, fully encapsulate with glass, probably easier and likely cheaper than laying in a bunch of glass. - i'd use 3/4 ply for the stingers.

2 - remove the foam, it is for flotation, and should be replaced, however, it just gets wet and rots everything else, my restore is not getting foam.

3 - i used cheap plywood, 3/4 on the stringers and transom, and 1/2 on the floor, i don't use marine grade - it has less knots in it, i'm covering in glass so i could care less about knots. when i rebuilt my transome i laminated 3 3/4 sheets together, because i knew i was overpowering and wanted to be safe, for your boat probably 1.5" thick transom would be fine

 

[Muttley]

Thanks for that. Normal Ply will definately be cheaper too. I'm not doing the transom as it seems really good and solid and is already 2.5" thick, but I will be bracing it substantially as I will also be overpowering. - I've contacted our local regulaters and insurance companies and discovered they don't have any problem with me hanging a '73 Mercury 150hp in line 6 off the back,....which I just happen to have one of sitting in the shed..........may have to call the boat 'Ovakill'.......
Cheers, Mut

 

[Chris E]

you sure the transom is good - you've done a couple of exploratory holes? in my experiance if the floor and stringers are bad -so is everything else.

 

[Will Switzer]

Im going to start a rest here real soonn myself and like Chris E have said check the transom . When I bought my Trimate years ago I didnt know the transom was bad . It sounded good and the motor didnt bounce around like the wood was loose . Hell I towed it 4 hrs from ohio with no problem this the first time in the water the 150hp inline six pushed right through the transom. I didnt put wood back in mine though I used sea cast . Now its better than when it was new . My Vmate will get the sea cast transom also here shortly .... Here are pics from the trimate transom repair. I was sick to my stomach when I got home and seen the holes in the transom http://www.transomrepair.com/catalog/pages.php?pID=23.

 

[Will Switzer]

sea cast being poured in

My dad reprayed the gel in black on the transom pad and my uncle machined up this nice aluminum plate

 

[Muttley]

Hmmmm....I think I'll do some more thorough checks on the Transom......
Checked a couple of holes but only ones which were already there.
That Seacast looks interesting, What is it? Is it stronger than traditional systems or just longer lasting?
Thanks, Mut

 

[Muttley]

Will.
I just googled Seacast and quite liked what I saw. If my transom if shot and the Seacast is available in Aust. (I've emailed that question to them), is it as easy to use as their site makes out? Anything in particular to be careful of?
Thanks, Mut

 

[Will Switzer]

Will.
I just googled Seacast and quite liked what I saw. If my transom if shot and the Seacast is available in Aust. (I've emailed that question to them), is it as easy to use as their site makes out? Anything in particular to be careful of?
Thanks, Mut

I am very pleased with the sea cast . It will never rot and is stronger than the wood and will hold more horse power . Soon as I can get to my Checkmate Vmate project its getting the same thing . Im going to slide the deck forward Scrape out the old transom and pour in the sea cast . From what I read You can even use it for your stringers too ....

 

[Muttley]

Well, I've just pulled up the rest of the floor and given the Transom a far more thorough check, and I'm one happy camper! The transom is solid. Checked all the current holes and drilled some new ones. All good.
And the good news doesn't finish there. The stringer under the driver's seat -which is the bit I pulled up first -has a length of about 1 foot which is rotted but it's an easy cutout and replace bit. The rest of the stringers are solid as rock! As this boat will not live in the water but be trailered, I've decided to repair the short bit and maybe give the rest the Rotdoctor treatment, and just put in a new floor. I think I struck it lucky there.
Here's a thought, - I intend to install a ski pole. Haven't checked out the mounting systems yet. Is there anything I should do for strength etc while installing the new floor, bracing points etc?
Cheers, Mut

 

[Chris E]

i'd make sure you put some type of bracing of some kind underneath - aluminum plate or something, i have seen poles pull out of floors. i will probably do a deck mount when i get to that point, with aluminum plating under all mounting points to strengthen everything.

 

[bigredinohio]

Well, I've just pulled up the rest of the floor and given the Transom a far more thorough check, and I'm one happy camper! The transom is solid. Checked all the current holes and drilled some new ones. All good.
And the good news doesn't finish there. The stringer under the driver's seat -which is the bit I pulled up first -has a length of about 1 foot which is rotted but it's an easy cutout and replace bit. The rest of the stringers are solid as rock! As this boat will not live in the water but be trailered, I've decided to repair the short bit and maybe give the rest the Rotdoctor treatment, and just put in a new floor. I think I struck it lucky there.
Here's a thought, - I intend to install a ski pole. Haven't checked out the mounting systems yet. Is there anything I should do for strength etc while installing the new floor, bracing points etc?
Cheers, Mut

It sounds like you got very lucky. You should post some pictures of your boat, along with some of your repair work for our view pleasure.

 

[Muttley]

Hi. The happy vibes didn't last long......Althought the transom is indeed solid the stringers aren't as good as first thought. The Wife's cousin who's been a boat builder for 15 years inspected and gave them the thumbs up making me very happy, but that was before I got all the foam out.....the lower half of the main stringer down the middle is stuffed from mid boat all the way back. Oh well, I guess I'll now learn about stringer replacement, and I'll take some snap shots and post them as I progress.
A couple more questions:
1/Regarding stringer material. Why use plywood rather than kiln-dried hardwood? Wouldn't the hardwood be more rot resistant, not to mention cheaper and equal in strength?
2/I've had conflicting advice regarding the foam removal. I don't want to put it back in as partially I blame it for rotting the stringer. I've been advised by one person (wifes cousin again) to make each compartment formed by the stringers and cross peices sealed air-tight for floatation purposes but advised by another not to as it will seal in any moisture that does manage to find it's way in. Any further opinions?
Cheers, Bo

 

[Muttley]

upload pics???

Ok, as promised I took some pics of the 'project'. Now, how do I upload them from file?
Cheers, Mut

 

[Chris E]

Hi. The happy vibes didn't last long......Althought the transom is indeed solid the stringers aren't as good as first thought. The Wife's cousin who's been a boat builder for 15 years inspected and gave them the thumbs up making me very happy, but that was before I got all the foam out.....the lower half of the main stringer down the middle is stuffed from mid boat all the way back. Oh well, I guess I'll now learn about stringer replacement, and I'll take some snap shots and post them as I progress.
A couple more questions:
1/Regarding stringer material. Why use plywood rather than kiln-dried hardwood? Wouldn't the hardwood be more rot resistant, not to mention cheaper and equal in strength?
2/I've had conflicting advice regarding the foam removal. I don't want to put it back in as partially I blame it for rotting the stringer. I've been advised by one person (wifes cousin again) to make each compartment formed by the stringers and cross peices sealed air-tight for floatation purposes but advised by another not to as it will seal in any moisture that does manage to find it's way in. Any further opinions?
Cheers, Bo

plywood is much stronger, and proper encapsulated, will be water proof. as far as cheaper, i think, dollar for dollar, you'll find plywood cheaper - don't worry about going with marine grade, g1s or sheathing grade is fine, you're covering it with glass anyway.

on the boat i am restorting, it will not have foam in it, imo, it increases rot, and while it provides some floatation, so does a lifejacket