got a phone call this morning and my boat was sunk. flushed out the engine 4 times and got her running and all is ok, put it back in the water and it runs fine.
i don't agree with boat tech on leaving the fuel tank empty,i always add fuel conditioner and fill the tank and then run the engine to fill the pump, lines and carb. in a climate where the temp goes up and down all winter condensation will occure in the tank and carb and will cause water issues...
the easiest way i found to protect the engine from freezing is to fill it with rv antifreeze. take a 5 gallon bucket and drill a hole in the bottom and fit a through-hull fitting in it with a 1/2 barb, then attach an old piece of garden hose with the female end on it with about 4 feet of hose...
you can go to your auto parts store and buy a filter for a 5.0liter/305ci chev engine and it will work fine but i would stick with the 25W40 oil, it will be fine to use valvoline if you can get that grade.
check the resistance between the pos/neg wires to the coil and between the pos/coil wire and compare them, if both coils are about the same they are probally alright. i would suspect the points and condensor as boat tech has mentioned. as with checking resistance on anything that you are unsure...
just have to make sure it is purged of all gas fumes, the acid and water took care of that. you can also fill them with an inert gas such as CO2 or nitrogen as well.
i am running a 23 pitch aluminum, i know i could gain some more if i went to a stainless 23 pitch but i would rather not put one on my boat due to rocks. i would rather beat an aluminum prop to death than ruin the gears in my drive if i hit something. i went to buy a 25 pitch aluminum but it is...
put the boat in and ran it and was loseing power. found the fuel tank to be full of varnish and gel so i removed it from the boat and cut two six inch holes in it and washed it out with some mild acid. then i got a guy at work to weld some covers over the holes and leak tested it. i spent one...
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