i would check and see if the boat you are wanting to convert was avabile as an outboard model first. i would also be concerned with the loss of wieght in the rear and throwing the boats balance and or the ride off. anything can be done if you are handy.
like chris said there are idiots everywhere, weather it be on the roads, water or air. licenses don't stop people from being idiots anywhere else so why would the water be any different. a few bad apples ruin it for everyone else.
the housings will work on both engines, the starters will not. send the extra counter rotation starter to a good starter shop and they should either be able to reverse the rotation for you or sell you one that will work.
usually when these heads crack it is between the valves and the problem won't arise unless the engine is hot. try starting the engine with the rad cap off and watch down inside the manifold as the engine warms up. if you start to notice air bubbles entering the coolant and the smell of exhaust...
I'm not sure where the place is excatly because I got the guy where I bought the parts to send it out. It cost around $450.00 to have it recast and had no problems in the last 2 years. The guy to talk to would be Mark at nova auotmotive and machine shop in dartmouth, nova scotia. I got the head...
mine wa doing the same thing,stripped it down and found the head was cracked. i could not find a new one so i sent it to montreal and had it recast, works fine now.
the 14 1/4 is the prop diameter and the 21 means that for each revolution of the prop the boat will move 21" forward. the higher this number the faster you will go, the lower the faster , but make sure you don't over rev
running without a thermostst could be causing this problem as well, with no restriction water flow the upper cyclinders on some outboards will be starved for water leaving a hot spot around the temp sensor.
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